Forget “Le Petit Paris” and the rest of the crap. This is Paris just as much as Casablanca is. But, frankly, I would have long moved away if it were. Byzantine structure churches originating in some long lost East Roman Empire, Oriental inns and dwellings of the former merchants, Brâncoveanu style carved stone decorations, houses bearing fine Armenian details, classical French palaces and administrative buildings, the odd Italian villa, Neo-Romanian properties, some Modernist patterns, omnipresent Communist stereotypical concrete blocks or Ceaușescu’s imposing, grotesque power show, as well as the momentum’s glass covered high rises: welcome to Bucharest! Then, hell, what makes this city unique, as many other places on Earth host buildings set in different styles? Not much, but this: some captivating chaos. The sweet and bitter kind.

Indeed, there is no rule according to which this city was built, developed or looks to the future. It developed between Turkish invasions, it was then caught between Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, Russian and later, German, respectively Russian (again) interests. “Order” here stands merely for the exception, like some of the period between the two World Wars. Or it stands for oppression, as it was the case during the Communist rule. Such a development is obvious nowadays in the city, and this statu quo prevails.

But let us open the eyes and see other things than traffic, high heels, low skirts and pastry. To put it short, let us walk for about one hour and see what this city can be about. The list here is neither comprehensive, nor complete. And, you might have already guessed, not at all fair. So, take Gheorghe Magheru Avenue from Piața Romană towards Piața Universității and look at the nowadays fading Modernist lines at Patria Cinema (formerly Aro Building, 1929-1934) and Ambasador Hotel (1935-1936). Walk a bit on and, look on the other side of the avenue, at the Art Deco Lido Hotel (1934). Not much farther down, when you reach the Intercontinental Hotel (1968-1970), turn to the right before a small fountain; you will see the beautiful carved stone, Neo-Romanian facade of the Architecture Faculty (1912-1917). Enjoy it, then return on Magheru Avenue and continue to the South. Past the Neoclassical Bucharest University on your right (1857-1869, the back facade is more interesting that the front), after using the underground passage to cross the Regina Elisabeta, you will find Șuțu Palace with its Neogothic facade (1833). Across the street from it, there is the Neoclassical Coltea Hospital (founded in 1707, the actual building dating from 1888) and Coltea Church (built in 1695). Continue to the South until you notice St. Gheorghe Nou Church with its fine Brâncoveanu style carved stone decorations in the veranda. Then cross the street and follow the Lipscani to the heart of the Old Town. At a certain moment, to your right, a forged iron gate opens to the Lindentree Inn (1833), nowadays hosting art galleries; it is one of the four still standing caravanserais in the city (the biggest of them being the nearby Manuc Inn). Still on along the Lipscani with its old merchant houses set in all architectural styles of the 19th century, from Classical inspired outlines and all the way to Art Nouveau. Not much later you meet the Eclectic-Academic National Bank (1890, located on the site of the former Șerban Vodă Inn) facing the 19th century Fashion House set in Neoclassical style with Renaissance influences; it nowadays hosts a couple of banks. A bit to the back, if you turn to the South along the Smârdan and then take the first street to the West (going to the back of the Fashion House), you will get to a small church: the Stavropoleos (built in Brâncoveanu style in 1724), featuring fine frescoes and a picturesque colonnade. Continue on until getting to Calea Victoriei, turn to the left and see two monumental buildings, other than the glass covered Zzzza shit tower opposite Victoria Store: on your side there is the National History Museum (formerly the Post Office Palace, accomplished in 1900 in Neoclassical style), while across the street there is the CEC Palace (built in 1900 in Eclectic style). Go down the Calea Victoriei and meet River Dâmbovița: go on, lightly turn to the right and follow Națiunile Unite Avenue between two rows of kitschy concrete buildings of the 1980s. You will soon reach the Palace of the Parliament (started in 1984 and built in a combination of various styles, President Ceaușescu’s lack of knowledge but glorious advice added). Got enough? If you got too much and feel sick, head to the front of the palace and look straight towards Piața Unirii, go straight along Unirea Avenue and take the first breach in the row of concrete buildings to your right. You will soon find Antim Monastery, a bit of silence, some fine architecture and no Ceaușescu’s “mare” obsession. Say a prayer, light a candle and enjoy the moment. For it will soon go away once you go out on the main street again.